destinations
Shkodër: A Guide to Albania's Northern Capital
Rozafa Castle, the Marubi archive, carp from Southern Europe's largest lake, a city on bicycles, and the 7am buses to Theth and Koman. How to do Shkodër well.
Shkoder
travel-tips
Albania's Summer Music Festivals: Kala, UNUM, Turtle Fest and Korça Beer Fest
Dates, ticket prices and transfer costs for Albania's festival season, from the imported beach festivals at Dhërmi to the beer festival locals actually go to.
destinations
Albania's Evening Promenades: Where Every City Walks Its Xhiro
Every Albanian city keeps one street for the evening xhiro. This is the map of them all: Vlora's Lungomare, Durrës's Vollga, Korça's boulevard, and where Tirana walks.
culture
The Burrnesha: Albania's Sworn Virgins and a Tradition Fading from Memory
The burrnesha were Albanian women who took an oath to live as men under the Kanun. Fewer than a dozen remain. Here is what the tradition was, and why.
destinations
The Koman Lake Ferry: The Most Beautiful Boat Ride in the Balkans
A 2.5-hour ferry through Albania's flooded canyon connects Koman to Fierza, with sheer cliffs, turquoise water, and fjord-like scenery.