destinations
Shkodër: A Guide to Albania's Northern Capital
Rozafa Castle, the Marubi archive, carp from Southern Europe's largest lake, a city on bicycles, and the 7am buses to Theth and Koman. How to do Shkodër well.
Northern-Albania
culture
The Burrnesha: Albania's Sworn Virgins and a Tradition Fading from Memory
The burrnesha were Albanian women who took an oath to live as men under the Kanun. Fewer than a dozen remain. Here is what the tradition was, and why.
destinations
The Koman Lake Ferry: The Most Beautiful Boat Ride in the Balkans
A 2.5-hour ferry through Albania's flooded canyon connects Koman to Fierza, with sheer cliffs, turquoise water, and fjord-like scenery.