destinations
Shkodër: A Guide to Albania's Northern Capital
Rozafa Castle, the Marubi archive, carp from Southern Europe's largest lake, a city on bicycles, and the 7am buses to Theth and Koman. How to do Shkodër well.
City-Guide
destinations
Gjirokastër: A Guide to Albania's Stone City
The castle is 400 lekë and closes at seven, the tower houses open by family, the bus drops you a 30-minute climb below the old town. Gjirokastër, explained.
destinations
Korçë: A Guide to Albania's Most Underrated City
A pedestrian boulevard, a restored bazaar, Albania's oldest brewery, frescoed churches half an hour away, cool evenings at 850 metres. How to do Korçë well.
destinations
Dhërmi and Himara: A Guide to the Riviera's Two Best Bases
The village is a steep half hour above the beach, the tunnel costs 250 lekë, the boat to Gjipe 15 euro. How Dhërmi and Himara work, and which to sleep in.
destinations
Albania's Evening Promenades: Where Every City Walks Its Xhiro
Every Albanian city keeps one street for the evening xhiro. This is the map of them all: Vlora's Lungomare, Durrës's Vollga, Korça's boulevard, and where Tirana walks.
destinations
Berat: A Guide to the City of a Thousand Windows
The castle is a living neighbourhood, not a ruin, and 300 lekë gets you in. What to see in Berat, when the light is right, and what to do in the hills around it.