destinations
Shkodër: A Guide to Albania's Northern Capital
Rozafa Castle, the Marubi archive, carp from Southern Europe's largest lake, a city on bicycles, and the 7am buses to Theth and Koman. How to do Shkodër well.
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Gjirokastër: A Guide to Albania's Stone City
The castle is 400 lekë and closes at seven, the tower houses open by family, the bus drops you a 30-minute climb below the old town. Gjirokastër, explained.
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Korçë: A Guide to Albania's Most Underrated City
A pedestrian boulevard, a restored bazaar, Albania's oldest brewery, frescoed churches half an hour away, cool evenings at 850 metres. How to do Korçë well.
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Dhërmi and Himara: A Guide to the Riviera's Two Best Bases
The village is a steep half hour above the beach, the tunnel costs 250 lekë, the boat to Gjipe 15 euro. How Dhërmi and Himara work, and which to sleep in.
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Albania's Evening Promenades: Where Every City Walks Its Xhiro
Every Albanian city keeps one street for the evening xhiro. This is the map of them all: Vlora's Lungomare, Durrës's Vollga, Korça's boulevard, and where Tirana walks.
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Hiking Near Tirana: 6 Day Hikes and How to Actually Get to Them
Six hikes within an hour of Tirana, from the Dajti ridge to the Black Cave at Pëllumbas, with honest notes on which you can reach by bus and which really need a car.
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Berat: A Guide to the City of a Thousand Windows
The castle is a living neighbourhood, not a ruin, and 300 lekë gets you in. What to see in Berat, when the light is right, and what to do in the hills around it.
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The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër): What Changed, and How to Visit It Properly
Swimming is banned and enforced, entry is 50 lekë cash, and the car park is two kilometres from the spring. What the Blue Eye is actually like now, and when to go.
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The Valbona to Theth Hike: Everything You Need to Know
How to hike Albania's most famous trail, the Valbona to Theth crossing over the 1,800 m pass: route, direction, transport, costs, and when to go.
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Hiking in Albania: A Complete First-Timer's Guide
Albania has some of the wildest mountains and least crowded trails in Europe. A practical first-timer's guide to when to go, where to start, and what to actually expect.
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The Koman Lake Ferry: The Most Beautiful Boat Ride in the Balkans
A 2.5-hour ferry through Albania's flooded canyon connects Koman to Fierza, with sheer cliffs, turquoise water, and fjord-like scenery.
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Ksamil Beach: Why Albania's Most Famous Shore Lives Up to the Hype
Ksamil's turquoise waters and tiny islands draw comparisons to the Caribbean. Here is what to expect, how to get there, and how to avoid the summer crowds.
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10 Hiking Trails in Albania That Will Make You Forget the Beach
Albania's hiking trails pass through accursed mountains, hidden canyons, and alpine lakes. Ten routes from easy day walks to multi-day treks.
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The Highest Mountains in Albania: A Hiker's Guide to the Albanian Peaks
From Mount Korab at 2,764 meters to the sacred slopes of Tomorr, here is a practical guide to Albania's highest and most rewarding mountain peaks.
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Southern Albania's Best Beaches: An Honest Guide from Palasa to Ksamil
From the wild cliffs of Palasa to the crowded sands of Saranda, a beach by beach guide to Albania's southern coastline with practical tips and honest opinions.