The first time I drove the Albanian Riviera, I white-knuckled my way over the Llogara Pass with my windows down, the smell of pine forests mixing with salt air a thousand meters below. By the time I reached Dhermi, my hands ached and my heart was full. That drive changed how I think about coastal travel in Albania: how you get around here is not just logistics. It is part of the experience.
The stretch from Vlora to Saranda is roughly 130 kilometers. On a map, that looks like nothing. In reality, the road twists through one of Europe’s most dramatic mountain passes, hugs cliffsides above turquoise water, and threads through small villages where a herd of goats can hold up traffic for ten minutes. Your transport choice shapes your entire trip, so let me walk you through every option honestly.
Rental Car
This is the most flexible way to explore the coast, and it is what I recommend for most travelers who are comfortable driving in southern Europe.
Expect to pay between 25 and 40 EUR per day for a basic car from agencies in Tirana, Vlora, or Saranda. In peak summer, book at least two weeks ahead or prices climb. A compact car with decent clearance works best. You do not need a full SUV, but you will appreciate something slightly raised for the occasional rough patch.
The Llogara Pass (Qafa e Llogarasë) is the highlight and the challenge. You climb from sea level to over 1,000 meters in tight switchbacks through a national park thick with fir trees, then descend toward beaches so blue they look edited. It is genuinely one of Europe’s great drives. Take it slowly, especially if there is fog, and pull over at the viewpoints rather than trying to gawk and steer at the same time.
Road conditions have improved enormously in recent years. The main SH8 coastal road is paved and mostly in good shape. Side roads to specific beaches (the turn down to Gjipe, for instance) can be unpaved and steep. In summer, parking in places like Ksamil and Dhermi becomes a real headache. Arrive before 10 AM or be prepared to walk.
One important tip: check your rental insurance carefully. Many agencies offer basic coverage that excludes gravel roads. If you plan to explore beyond the main highway, pay the extra few euros per day for full coverage. Also confirm whether the car can cross into Greece if you are considering a Saranda-to-Corfu side trip.
Pros: Complete freedom, access to hidden beaches, travel on your own schedule.
Cons: The Llogara Pass is not for nervous drivers. Summer parking is frustrating. Fuel stations are less frequent south of Himara.
Furgons (Minibuses)
Furgons (furgonë) are Albania’s unofficial public transport system: privately run minibuses that connect towns along loose schedules. They are cheap, authentic, and slightly chaotic.
The main coastal routes run Tirana to Vlora, Vlora to Saranda (following the coast road), and Saranda to Ksamil. Prices are low, usually between 300 and 1,000 lekë depending on distance. The catch is that furgons leave when they are full, not on a fixed timetable, and stops are not always clearly marked.
I have written a full guide on how the furgon system works, including how to find them and what to expect. Read it here: How to Use Furgons in Albania. For the coast specifically, the Vlora-to-Saranda furgon is the one you want. It follows the SH8 over Llogara and stops in Dhermi, Himara, and other towns if you ask the driver. Just tell him where you are going when you board.
Pros: Very cheap. A genuine slice of Albanian daily life. No parking worries.
Cons: Unpredictable schedules. Can be crowded in summer. Limited luggage space. You are on someone else’s route and timetable.
Public Buses
Actual scheduled buses (autobus) do exist on the coast, though the network is thinner than in northern Europe.
The most reliable routes are Tirana to Vlora (multiple departures daily, around 4 hours, roughly 1,000 lekë), Vlora to Himara, and Himara to Saranda. These run on something closer to a fixed schedule than furgons, departing from actual bus stations. In summer, there are usually a few departures per day on each route.
The buses are basic but functional. Air conditioning works sometimes. The views from the window, especially the descent from Llogara, are spectacular even from a bus seat. Just do not expect the driver to stop for photos.
Pros: Cheapest option. More predictable than furgons. Comfortable enough for the distance.
Cons: Limited frequency, especially off-season. Fixed stops only. You cannot hop off at a random beach.
Boats and Water Taxis
In summer, small boat services open up along the coast, and this is one of my favorite ways to experience the Riviera. Approaching beaches like Gjipe or Porto Palermo from the water, with the mountains rising behind them, is something else entirely.
Water taxis operate between major beach areas, particularly Himara to Dhermi and along the Ksamil shoreline. Prices vary and are almost always negotiable, but expect to pay around 1,000 to 2,000 lekë per person for a short hop. From Ksamil, small boats shuttle visitors to the islands just offshore for 500 to 1,000 lekë round trip. These are informal operations. You will find them at the beach, not online.
The Saranda to Corfu ferry is a different category entirely: a proper commercial service running multiple times daily in summer (less frequently off-season). Tickets run around 19 to 25 EUR one way, and the crossing takes about 30 minutes. Book a day ahead in August.
Pros: Stunning perspectives of the coastline. Access to beaches with no road. The Corfu ferry is fast and easy.
Cons: Seasonal only (roughly June through September). Weather-dependent. Water taxis have no fixed schedule.
Taxi and Private Transfers
Taxis are available in every coastal town, and hiring one for a point-to-point transfer is straightforward. The critical rule: always agree on the price before you get in the car.
A taxi from Saranda to Ksamil runs around 1,500 to 2,000 lekë. Saranda to Himara might cost 4,000 to 5,000 lekë. From Vlora to Dhermi, expect around 3,500 to 4,500 lekë. These are approximate, and you should negotiate politely but firmly. Some drivers will quote higher prices to obvious tourists.
Ride-hailing apps exist in Albania, but coverage along the coast is thin. In Saranda you might find a driver on an app, but in Himara or Dhermi, you are asking at your hotel or flagging someone down on the street. Your accommodation host is often the best resource for arranging a reliable driver.
Pros: Door-to-door convenience. Good for airport transfers or one-off trips. No driving stress.
Cons: Adds up quickly if used regularly. Negotiation required. Limited availability in smaller villages.
Organized Day Trips
If you would rather not deal with transport at all, day trips run from both Saranda and Vlora throughout the summer season.
From Saranda, popular excursions include Butrint, Ksamil, the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), and boat trips along the coast. From Vlora, you can find trips to Karaburun Peninsula and Sazan Island. Prices range from 2,000 to 5,000 lekë per person depending on the itinerary, and typically include transport and sometimes a guide.
These work well if you are based in one town and want to see surrounding areas without renting a car. Hotels and hostels usually have brochures, or you can book through local agencies on the main street. The quality varies, so ask other travelers or check recent reviews.
Pros: Zero planning required. Good for solo travelers or those short on time. Often include local knowledge you would miss alone.
Cons: Fixed itineraries. You move with a group. Less spontaneity.
Which One Is Right for You?
If you want total freedom and you are comfortable with mountain driving, rent a car. The coastal road is extraordinary and having your own wheels lets you chase down those half-hidden beaches that make the Riviera special.
If you are on a tight budget and do not mind some unpredictability, combine furgons and buses. You will get everywhere you need to go, just more slowly and with more patience required.
If you are based in one town (Saranda is the easiest base), mix taxis, boats, and day trips. You can see most of the highlights within a week without ever sitting behind a wheel.
And if you have the time, I honestly suggest combining methods. Drive the Llogara Pass at least once, take a water taxi to a remote beach, ride a furgon just for the experience. The Albanian coast rewards people who are willing to be a little flexible with how they move through it.
One Last Thought
The Riviera is changing fast. Roads that were gravel five years ago are now paved. New bus routes appear each summer. Water taxi services expand and shift. Prices in this article reflect what I have seen recently, but always confirm locally. Ask your hotel, ask at a café, ask the person sitting next to you on the furgon. Albanians are generous with information, especially when you show genuine curiosity about getting around their beautiful coast.